When is underfloor or wall heating a good idea?

For a long time, underfloor heating was considered a luxury; cast-iron radiators mounted on the wall were the standard in most living spaces. However, as part of the shift toward more sustainable heating options—such as heat pumps or solar collectors, which are now commonplace in new construction—underfloor heating has become virtually unavoidable. It’s also a fact that, as a rule, underfloor heating is no more—or hardly any more—expensive than so-called radiator heating, as the standard radiator is formally known. Since heat from underfloor heating rises from the floor and then radiates from the walls and ceiling, the room temperature can actually be maintained more consistently than with conventional heating. Cold feet will then be a thing of the past anyway. Below, we’ve compiled additional pros and cons of underfloor heating, as well as information on when wall or even ceiling heating makes sense.

In general, underfloor heating systems work by using pipes firmly anchored in the floor, which ensure optimal heat distribution throughout the room. A strong argument in favor of underfloor heating is its ecological footprint, which is significantly smaller than that of traditional radiators: Since underfloor heating systems emit heat across the entire floor surface, they operate much more efficiently than radiators and can therefore run at lower temperatures without affecting the perceived warmth or, consequently, the sense of comfort. While radiators require a flow temperature of around 50 to 60 degrees from their significantly smaller surface area, underfloor heating systems can operate at a much lower setting of 30 to 35 degrees. This is not only good for the environment but also easy on the wallet.

However, underfloor heating systems are more difficult to regulate: they heat up more slowly and take longer to cool down again. This is due, on the one hand, to the large area that needs to be heated, and on the other hand, to the fact that the concrete subfloor used in this context acts as a powerful heat reservoir. As a result, it’s virtually impossible to significantly lower the temperature overnight with underfloor heating, and even turning it off completely on a whim during the summer is rather difficult. However, the thickness of the flooring can influence this to a certain extent: a thinner floor covering naturally allows more heat to pass through more quickly.

In general, the installation of underfloor heating also affects the floor itself or the floor covering: for example, special underfloor heating is required for floors made of wood or cork. The slightly higher cost of underfloor heating, if applicable, is due to the necessary insulation that accompanies it.

Retrofitting underfloor heating—for example, in an occupied older building—is possible, but quite labor-intensive. In this case, homeowners should consider an alternative heating system. However, the different systems should not be mixed: Not only is a combination inefficient, but it also makes it much more difficult to control the room temperature. This results in heat building up inside the home.

Similar to radiant floor heating, wall heating systems involve installing heating pipes within the wall. These are installed either inside drywall or on the bare walls; in the latter case, they are covered with a special type of plaster designed for this purpose. Once the heat has warmed the plaster or the wall, the wall then transfers the heat to the room. According to experts, heat radiation through the wall surface is both more efficient and more comfortable than wall or ceiling heating. Wall heating systems also conveniently heat the floors directly. Surveys have shown that the indoor climate is rated as most comfortable with this heating system.

One drawback, however, is that wall surfaces—and thus heating surfaces—are typically interrupted by windows. Especially with floor-to-ceiling windows, additional heating is then required. Furthermore, no furniture may be placed against the heated wall surfaces—which also makes wall heating somewhat difficult to implement in practice. Caution is also required when driving nails or anchors into the heated wall.

From an environmental perspective, however, wall heating stands out for its exceptional efficiency: Since the total heating surface area is significantly larger with wall heating than with floor or ceiling heating, the system can operate at a temperature that is up to three degrees Celsius lower—which, not least, also has a positive impact on your wallet.

Like the other two types, ceiling heating is also a surface heating system that radiates heat throughout the entire room and consists of a support system made up of hot-water pipes. One of the specific advantages: While the pipes are integrated directly into the concrete ceiling in new construction, it is also easily possible to install them retroactively beneath the ceiling and cover them with an additional layer such as concrete or drywall. Compared to underfloor and wall heating, ceiling heating allows the entire heating surface to emit heat without being blocked by furniture, carpets, or curtains. Another positive side benefit: When combined with a geothermal heat pump, this type of ceiling heating can even be used for room cooling in the summer.

There are, therefore, several alternatives to the traditional heating system consisting of individual radiators distributed throughout the home. Although the surface heating systems mentioned differ in certain aspects, they all share the ecological advantage over compact radiators. The same applies to their visual appearance: Since all surface heating systems are concealed behind walls, ceilings, or floors, they are practically invisible. As a result, they stir up less dust than a traditional radiator under the windowsill—an important factor for people with allergies and asthma. Last but not least, this also means that surface heating systems—unlike conventional radiators—do not need to be kept clean.